By Olivia Santana Domínguez
In Latin America, traditional dyeing techniques not only represent an ancestral legacy, but also a model of sustainability and respect for the environment. These ancestral practices, passed down from generation to generation, reflect the deep connection of the people with their natural environment and their worldview.
In Ecuador, for example, the techniques have been used since the formative period (3500 B.C.) with the use of native plants such as Barba de viejo, Nogal, Aliso, Killuyuyo, Garau and Shirán that achieve 71 shades of color.
During the collection and preparation of these plant materials, certain rules must be followed to ensure the sustainability and quality of the natural dyeing process. These rules include: cutting no more than 20% of the plant from its underside to help preserve the plant and ensure its continued growth, as well as using disinfected cutting tools. This prevents the spread of pests and diseases that could affect the plant and the dyeing process.
In Peru, the textile tradition is characterized by the use of natural pigments obtained from various plants and some insects. Among the most commonly used plants are Tara, Turmeric, Cabbage, Beetroot and Anchancaray. These dyeing techniques are usually vegan, as they do not require the use of animal products. However, it should be noted that in the production of some natural dyes, such as carmine, insects such as the cochineal are used.
In Mexico, the purple snail is used, a mollusk that produces an intense color dye that dates back to pre-Hispanic times. As part of the knowledge of the dyers, to take care of the species, they paint sizes no smaller than 3 centimeters and come to dye monthly, since the recovery period of the dye ranges from 15 to 21 days.
To protect this species, the snail is included in Mexican Official Standard NOM-059-SEMARNAT-2010, which determines the species and subspecies of terrestrial and aquatic wild flora and fauna that are endangered, threatened, rare, and subject to special protection, and establishes the specifications for their protection.
The use of purple conch is restricted exclusively to indigenous people, so to date, in all of Mexico, the only people allowed to harvest purple conch are the dyers of Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca.
A sustainable approach in harmony with the planet.
The use of natural dyes was displaced worldwide following the introduction of the first synthetic dye in 1856 by the British chemist W.H. Perkin, who was responsible for establishing a new chemical industry.
Numerous synthetic dyes are applied in many industries and, as a result, some of the colored wastewater is released into the ecosystem. According to the SINC agency (Servicio de Información y Noticias Científicas) of the Spanish Foundation for Science and Technology, chemicals in clothing can cause health hazards such as allergic skin reactions and even greater risks as consumers are exposed to substances with carcinogenic potential.
Unlike the modern textile industry, which relies heavily on synthetic chemicals and polluting processes, heritage dyeing techniques in Latin America are based on principles of sustainability. The use of natural and renewable raw materials, as well as low environmental impact processes, minimize the ecological footprint of these practices.
In addition to their positive environmental impact, natural dyes also offer benefits to human health. Some of these pigments, naturally present in plants, possess the ability to absorb UV rays. This property is maintained even when they are transferred to textile fibers, providing additional protection to the skin against the harmful effects of the sun. Additionally, natural dyes are generally hypoallergenic and do not cause skin irritation, making them an ideal choice for people with chemical sensitivities or allergies.
Beyond their inherent qualities, natural dyes contribute to more sustainable fashion practices. Their use encourages the reuse and recycling of garments by giving a second life to old garments through re-dyeing, thus reducing the amount of textile waste going to landfills. Opting for natural dyes in the production of clothing offers a number of advantages ranging from sustainability and health to creativity and reduced environmental impact.
Preserving the rich heritage of traditional dyeing techniques in Latin America is a collective responsibility that requires concerted action by various stakeholders. It is important to provide support to the artisans and indigenous communities that defend these practices, ensuring their transmission to future generations. At the same time, fostering research and education in this area is crucial to deepen our understanding and appreciation of these ancestral techniques.
Encouraging the consumption of textiles made using traditional dyeing techniques is essential to ensure the long-term viability of these practices. Recognizing the inherent cultural, environmental and economic value of these products is essential to drive consumer demand and support the artisans who create them.